Installing a high-quality substrate is probably the single most important factor behind long-term tile performance in wet or humid areas like bathrooms and kitchens.
ÂChoose standard, 1/2-inch-thick cement board panels for use on walls and ceilings, and 5/16-inch-thick panels for floors and countertops. Use the panel’s smooth side for mastic applications and the rough side for mortar applications.
ÂCut the board by scoring one side with a utility knife, snapping the board, and then cutting through the embedded glass-fiber mesh on the backside (figure 1). Alternatively, use a carbide-tipped circular saw blade.
ÂAttach the board to wood or steel framing 16 inches o.c. with corrosion-resistant screws (hot-dipped galvanizing roofing nails can also be used with wood framing but not with steel framing).
ÂDrive fasteners straight (figure 2), 3/8 to 5/8 inches from the edge of the panel, spaced 8 inches o.c. for walls and floors, and 6 inches o.c. for ceilings. Drive the fastener heads flush with the board surface.
ÂTape joints for a monolithic surface that will minimize cracks and popped tiles. Use glass-fiber mesh tape rather than drywall tape, which will break down from the alkali in the Portland cement. Embed the tape in a layer of latex-fortified mortar or Type 1 organic adhesive.
El consejo técnico de este mes por cortesía de USG Corp.
El consejo técnico de este mes por cortesía de USG Corp.
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